http://www.historicclothingspecialist.com/Blog feed for Historic Clothing SpecialistCopyright 2012 Historic Clothing Specialisthttp://www.historicclothingspecialist.com/articles/view/?article=45Recently I have had the opportunity to study a lovely silk, 1864 dress. There was a great deal of lace  in flounces over the skirt. Under that portion was a cotton - very light weight - that had originally been the same color of the silk of the rest of the dress. In other words, part of the skirt which was untrimmed, was silk. The trimmed (entirely covered with the lace); cotton had been used to possibly have adequate silk for the dress.   It was beautifully made, but economy had …Mon, 21 May 2012 05:40:26 GMThttp://www.historicclothingspecialist.com/articles/view/?article=44Be aware of those who say - they would never have done that 'back then'. And all the other nay sayers. Know you stuff and back up what you have learned.   Always take advantage of any avenue of research made available to you. And that applies to any era that you are drawn to - pieces that you hope  to reproduce, or use in living history events.   There are many armchair *reviewers, critics, and etc. Therefore  study and education is the best defense. Educa…Mon, 21 May 2012 05:40:26 GMThttp://www.historicclothingspecialist.com/articles/view/?article=43Further thougths on 19TH century extant clothing - one I have just completed a study of had interesting lining applications in the bodice. The front was flat lined, while the bodice back had no exposed seams allowances and everything was concealed. The point at which the two came together at the sidee seams, the back lining lapped over the other and was hand sewn with extremely tiny, neat hand whipping. Mon, 21 May 2012 05:40:26 GMThttp://www.historicclothingspecialist.com/articles/view/?article=42I have been doing a study of some extant  clothing at a Midwestern museum. Lovely pieces, sometimes a piece, obviously dressmaker quality sewing and construction, broke several norms. The handwork is beautiful.  Yet these mid Th century pieces had no piping, and the  gauged skirt top had no turn down, but  hand gauged,  then  machine sewn, right sides together, to the bodice edge.  ...A good rule to remember, is to never say never. While there wa…Mon, 21 May 2012 05:40:26 GMThttp://www.historicclothingspecialist.com/articles/view/?article=41It is difficult to stay indoors when the Fall colors are so beautiful and the weather is perfect - no more summer humidity. But I am reminded that I have been wanting to make a Civil War Era ensemble out of a bolt of beautiful mustard gold herringbone that beckons to me. COLOR INSPIRES!   It has been a season -a year actually - of very productive work; both period and current. My cogs are turning and I am excited about future creations and designs. Have been approached to do some teaching…Mon, 21 May 2012 05:40:26 GMThttp://www.historicclothingspecialist.com/articles/view/?article=40Hello sister sewist. Just wanted to give you a heads up that Butterick will be coming out with two more of my designs. While I'm not at liberty to say what, keep an eye out - and I'll also post here on my blog when they are in the catalogs.  I can say that I have three in the studio that I will publish myself, and they are Civil War Era. Target date- early Winter.   I've had an incredibly productive Spring & Summer. Hope you have as well. Now October is here - my very favorite m…Mon, 21 May 2012 05:40:26 GMThttp://www.historicclothingspecialist.com/articles/view/?article=39Hello San Diego Old Town!   Hope you see this as I'm having trouble in my 'reply' on email and I don't see you question in the 'comments' section of my blog to answer your question there.    So here goes.  Flat lining simply means laying your fashion fabric on the  lining fabric and treating them as one during the construction process.  Low lining means if you have  - for instance - a scooped out neckline for the lining, but the bodice has a normal neckli…Mon, 21 May 2012 05:40:26 GMThttp://www.historicclothingspecialist.com/articles/view/?article=38Greetings all. It has been a poductive summer. 2 museum reproductions, 3 new designs coming our for McCAll/Butterick, got a Champion ribbon from the Ozark Empire fair for a Civil War era gown,  and sewning for a big family wedding Whew! and getting ready to demo. historic sewing at Wilsons Creek Federal Battelfield this weekend - Aug. 13 & 14 Sat. & Sun. Hope to see you there.   Happy sewing! Nancy   Mon, 21 May 2012 05:40:26 GMThttp://www.historicclothingspecialist.com/articles/view/?article=37It is unfortunate that misinformation is picked up on and repeated. One of those things concerns hook & eye tape. Present day hook & eye tape does have its place and it does have its problems. Study original tape and observe how close the hooks & eyes were set on. We can always create our own. It involves work - but most worthwhile things do.  And always use only 100% cotton tape to sew to. Mon, 21 May 2012 05:40:26 GMThttp://www.historicclothingspecialist.com/articles/view/?article=36When discussing how to fasten bodices of the 19th century, the subject of hook & eye tape almost always comes up. Uninformed nay sayers are harsh in their opinions of it. However, research tells us it was first manufactured and offered for sale in 1836. Mon, 21 May 2012 05:40:26 GMT